David Malosh for The New York Times. Look for beautiful good-quality pork, such as Berkshire, and ask for baked pork chops with bread crumbs-cut loin chops with bone.
For the bread crumbs, use day-old firm white sandwich bread or French loaf, cubed and whirled in a food processor, for about three cups of soft, fluffy crumbs. Lay pork chops on a baking sheet, and season well on both sides with salt and pepper. Combine eggs and milk in a low, flat bowl. Season with salt, pepper and the small pinch of cayenne. Sprinkle flour generously over the chops on both sides, then shake off excess. Submerge the floured chops in the egg mixture, and turn them over several times to coat well.
Leave chops in egg mixture for 5 minutes. Use your left hand to remove a chop from the batter and drain off excess liquid. Place chop on a baking sheet and, with your right hand, heavily sprinkle with bread crumbs on both sides. Sprinkle each chop again with crumbs, patting with your hand to make sure crumbs adhere and coat well. Refrigerate, uncovered, until ready to fry. Set a wide cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high heat.
When butter is hot, lay in the chops without crowding, and let them fry very gently, about 4 to 5 minutes per side, until beautifully golden brown. Turn down heat if they seem to be browning too fast. If your pan is small, cook in 2 batches and keep finished chops warm in a 250-degree oven. Blot cooked chops on paper towels. Transfer to a warm platter or individual plates. Be the first to leave one.